含马齿苋及大豆精华提取物护肤品的美白功效观察 马齿苋提取物的护肤品

　　[摘要]目的:观察含有马齿苋及大豆精华提取物护肤品的美白疗效。方法:将40名光老化受试者随机分为对照组及试验组,三种美白护肤品(日霜、晚霜、精华素)含有不同比例马齿苋及大豆精华提取物。两组均外用日霜及晚霜,试验组加用精华素,共持续12周。应用无创性仪器客观检测面部L*a*b*值、黑素指数(melanin index,MI)及红斑指数(erythema index,EI),由医生及受试者就皮肤色泽改善程度进行主观评价。结果:对照组于12周时MI均值显著下降;试验组于4周及12周时,L*值显著升高、b*及MI值显著下降,两组a*及EI值均无明显变化。于4周时,对照组轻度改善者占35%,试验组轻、中度改善者占63%;于12周时,对照组及试验组分别有40%及79%的受试者达轻、中度改善,两组均无红斑、毛细血管扩张、皮肤红肿等不良反应发生。结论:三种美白护肤品(日霜、晚霜、精华素)联合应用可安全而有效地改善皮肤色泽。
　　[关键词]马齿苋;大豆;美白
　　[中图分类号]R282.71 [文献标识码]A[文章编号]1008-6455(2010)09-1332-04
　　
　　Whitening effect of purslane and soy extracts
　　JIANG Li-li,LI Yuan-hong,WU Yan,XIAO Ting,GAO Xing-hua,CHEN Hong-duo
　　[Department of Dermatology, the First Hospital of China Medical University, Key Laboratory of Immunodermatology, Ministry of Health (China Medical University) Shenyang 110001,Liaoning, China]
　　
　　Abstract: ObjectiveTo evaluate the whitening effect of purslane and soy extracts.MethodsForty photoaging subjects were randomly divided into the control group and the treatment group. The combination of the three whitening products, including day cream, night cream and ampoule, which contain different ratios of purslane and soy extracts.Day cream and night cream were topically applied to all subjects. Ampoule cream was additionally applied to the subjects of the treatment group. The study was conducted for 12 weeks. Noninvasive instruments were used to measure the L*a*b* value, melanin index (MI) and erythema index (EI). Subjective assessments were conducted by ablinded dermatologist and subjects concerning of the improvement of skin color.ResultsOn week 4 and 12, the L* value of the treatment group significantly increased, and the b* and MI values of this group significantly decreased. Meanwhile the charge of MI value of the control group was not obviously decreased until on week 12. The a* and EI values of both groups don"t changed much. On week 4, 35% subjects in the control group improved slightly, meanwhile 63% subjects in the treatment group improved slightly to moderately. On week 12, 40% subjects in the control group obtained slight to moderate improvements. 79% subjects in the control treatment group obtained slight to moderate improvements. No erythema, telangiectasis, or edema was observed in both groups. Conclusion The combination of the three whitening products could effectively whiten the skin.
　　Key words: purslane; soy; whitening
　　
　　东方女性历来追求柔嫩、白皙的肌肤,因而各种美白护肤品受到众多爱美女士的青睐,尤其含有植物提取物的产品。最近,强生公司研发了一系列新型美白护肤产品,其主要的有效成分包括马齿苋及大豆精华提取物。本研究采用随机对照方法观察了该护肤产品的美白疗效,现报道如下。
　　
　　1对象和方法
　　1.1研究对象:纳入标准:①30～60岁面部光老化女性受试者;②自愿参加本研究并签署知情同意书。排除标准:①对本产品中任何成分有过敏史者;②妊娠或哺乳期妇女;③近期使用过(内服或外用)类固醇类药物或抗组胺类药物者;④有系统性疾病或皮肤病者;⑤不能按要求使用本产品者;⑥不能按时随访者。
　　1.2 研究方法
　　1.2.1 护肤品来源及种类:由强生中国(露得清)提供,主要成分包括马齿苋、大豆精华提取物及维生素(A、B、C),根据配比比例不同制成日霜(含防晒剂 SPF20/PA+)、晚霜、精华素。
　　1.2.2 受试者分组方法:按随机数字表将所有受试者随机分为对照组及试验组,两组受试者均于每日晨起洁面后外用日霜、睡前洁面后外用晚霜,试验组于应用上述护肤品前外用精华素。整个研究持续12周。
　　1.2.3 照片留取:于治疗前(W0)、2周后(W2)、4周后(W4)、12周后(W12)分别用数码相机(Coolpix 5700,Nikon,日本)留取受试者正位及双侧位45°的照片。
　　1.2.4 非创伤性检测:于上述4个时间点进行检测。应用分光测色仪(Spectrophometry CM2600D,Minolta,日本)对受试者眉正中上方1cm、眼外眦旁1cm、颧骨最高部位及唇旁1cm共4个部位进行L*a*b*值测定,每个部位测3次,取平均值;应用窄谱反射分光光度计(Mexameter MX18,Courage+Khazaka electronic GmbH,Cologne,德国)对上述四个部位进行黑素指数(melanin index,MI)和红斑指数(erythema index,EI)测定,每个部位测3次,取平均值。
　　1.2.5 主观评价:于W2、W4、W12由一位未参加本试验的皮肤科医生根据照片及受试者本人对皮肤色泽的改善程度进行评价,分为无改善、轻度改善、中度改善及明显改善四个等级。
　　1.2.6 数据处理及分析:采用SPSS 16.0 FOR WINDOWS进行数据处理。计量资料采用t检验、等级资料采用非参数检验进行分析,P0.05)。
　　2.1.2 均值变化情况:对照组:与W0相比,W12时的MI均值显著下降,差异有统计学意义(P0.05)。于W12时,对照组中无改善及轻度改善者各占50%,而试验组中仅26%无改善,显著低于对照组,21%的受试者获得了中度改善,其余受试者均呈轻度改善,两组不同改善程度人数分布具有统计学差异(P0.05)。于W4时,对照组轻度改善者达35%,其余无改善,而试验组中认为其获得了轻、中度改善者占63%,仅37%受试者认为无改善,两组间差异显著(P